My Route: Providence, RI to San Francisco, CA

My Route: Providence, RI to San Francisco, CA
4000 miles + 30 people + 10 weeks + one bike = one great adventure

Thursday, July 26, 2012

The Deseeeerrrrrtttttt

This post is going to be pretty barren, just of like the terrain we're riding through.

Since last time, we've finished up Colorado, powered through Utah and are now inching our way through Nevada. It's all been desert as of late, but lots of different kinds of desert- from the yellowy shrubby mountains to narrow red canyons to the big empty grayness we're in now.

Some highlights and lowlights: descending into a freezing rainstorm for ten miles on the way to Naturita, CO; getting asked to our little faux Bike and Build prom by the lovely Rachael via peanut butter jar; riding fifty miles off course with a few guys on the way to Moab, finding a desert resort in the middle of nowhere and getting a van to take us the now over a hundred miles to our destination; working with Community Rebuilds, a small affordable housing organization in Moab that builds homes using straw bales as support (apparently a legitimate sustainable building method); the day off in Moab, during which I went rafting down the Colorado River through some crazy canyons and rock formations; venturing out into the true, lonely, gray desert; and discovering that Nevada is in fact the most mountainous of the forty-eight contiguous states. It's been a pretty difficult stretch this last week- the terrain is just so monotonous now. Also, we've been camping and making our own food a lot, which is pretty fun.

The trip is really starting to wind down. Only four more days and we're in California! Crazy. Feeling a weird mix of excitement for the achievement and for returning to real life, and sadness that the adventure is almost over. I guess that's pretty normal. No service/internet for the rest of this state, so I guess my next post will be from California...

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Between the Rockies and a Hard Place

It's official, we're in the Rocky Mountains! More on that in a second...

This last week was essentially our transition from the Midwest to the West west, across the plains and farmland of Nebraska and the eastern part of Colorado, which (who knew?) was actually flatter than Kansas.

The stark beauty of the plains continued to unroll before us as we said goodbye to Kansas and set out for Red Cloud, NE. The ride to Red Cloud (named for an old Native American chief) was notable for two big reasons: we hit 1) the world's biggest ball of twine, which I thought was an urban legend, and 2) the geographic center of the US, just before the Nebraska border. The ball of twine was cool just because it is one of those things you joke about seeing when doing a cross-country trip. Who knew we'd actually get to see it (I didn't until that morning). The ball itself was kind of what you'd expect. The best part of the stop was the nap I took next to it in someone's portable hammock- Bike and Build has converted me to a devout napper. Then there was the center of the continental US, about a half mile detour off our main road. There was a little memorial arch, a flag pole, and a mini chapel. Very cool, very symbolic. Took a nap there too. Oh, and we camped out in Red Cloud in a little public park next to a swimming pool in our brand new five person tents.

The ride to Alma the next day was short mileage-wise but long time-wise. Chris, one of the leaders, surprised us with a scavenger hunt at the morning meeting, so most of the day was spent finding/doing weird stuff ('climb a tree, 'take a nap in a weird place', 'draw some chalk art on the side of the road', etc.). My team, the Autobots, comprised of Rae, Ami, and myself, was an absolute supergroup and took second place with our unparalleled hay bale dance. McCook, where we rode the next day, was a nice little town with a nice little public pool we got to swim in, but I remember next to nothing about the ride there.

On the day into Holyoke, CO, we almost got caught in a rainstorm and took cover in a nice farmer's barn, a farmer who it just so happened had helped to host our trip in previous years- how 'bout that? The state sign for Colorado was cool, but I was disappointed that the corn didn't instantly give way to mountains (which is totally how it should work).

We finally saw those towering peaks as a haze in the distance on the ride to Loveland, a bigger town at the foot of the mountains. It was intimidating and awe-inspiring to see their huge forms gradually materializing, all the while knowing that we were going to have to pedal ourselves up there. And man, are these mountains beautiful. I've been to Colorado once before to ski, but I don't remember the Rockies being anything like this.

Loveland was a build day- landscaping, to be precise. We did edging, put in a rock bed and Planted some little pine trees for two houses, and it looked pretty darn professional when we were done. I also managed to get to a bike shop with some really competent mechanics who finally fixed this maddening click in my bottom bracket. This click had been driving me nuts, maybe a little unnecessarily, but not having to hear the sound of toe nail clippers with every pedal stroke while climbing in the heat made me a happy camper.

Speaking of climbing, the next day was the ride into Estes Park, a breezy thirty-miler that brought us up a few thousand feet into this touristy, happening town nestled between the mountains. The climbing wasn't too bad- the grades (measure of steepness) here are actually more gradual than those in the Appalachians because they use switchbacks, as opposed to roads straight up the slope. I definitely began to feel the altitude though- as the air got thinner, it felt like someone had latched an extra thirty pounds on to my bike. In any case, it was a beautiful ride through a gorge and up into Estes, where we stopped for lunch at a burger joint built into the hillside.

The next day (to Granby) was the biggest climb of the trip. Trail Ridge
Road is the highest continuous paved road in the US, reaching elevations of over twelve thousand feet, and we rode it. We started at around seven thousand in Estes, so it was about five thousand feet up over twenty miles. What made it hard for me wasn't really the climbing, it was the elevation. My muscles just fatigued very easily in the thin air. But it was truly beautiful, and so cool to just think about what we were doing. Oh, and another thing- it gets cold when you go so high up. It got down below sixty at one point, about a fifty degree difference from what we were dealing with on the plains. At the top there was a miraculous info station/cafe/gift shop where we ate warm food, blew money on trinkets and trophies and waited to cheer everyone in. The descent back down was crazy fun, whipping around switchbacks way too fast.

It's been two days since Trail Ridge, the first to Breckenridge and then (today) to Salida. The postcard scenery just keeps coming: huge blue lakes and reservoirs, scrubby slopes dotted with yellow and purple flowers, crystalline streams cutting through reedy fields, and the ever-present mountains in all shapes and sizes. I'm not doing this justice... maybe the pictures will help.

Before I finish up I just want to say a big thank you again to all of you who are reading this. Your support made this awesome trip possible, and your continued interest means a lot. Unfortunately, and obviously, I can't pack every little thing into this blog; what has made this summer life changing are the little in-between moments as much as the grand adventurous ones. But hopefully I'm giving people (all ten of you) a good idea. Pictures below, as usual in no particular order. Cheers.









Friday, July 13, 2012

Auntie Em, Auntie Em!

I wish I were writing this in Nebraska, so I could say "I don't think we're in Kansas anymore," but alas, this is our last night in the state. I believe I left off in Moberly, MO- the next two ninety-mile days brought us first into Richmond and then into Lawrence, KS. Not too much to say about the rides... long, flat, fairly pretty. On the second day we stopped for lunch in Kansas City, our last sizable city until San Francisco. While we were eating lunch under an overpass a truck hit a fire hydrant and created a spontaneous little three-story fountain for us (and apparently Kansas City is second in number of fountains only to Rome, so there you go). And in Richmond, we got a lesson in organ playing from one of the parishioners... and that's all that stands out from those two days. Oh, and one other thing- Kansas is not flat as a pancake, or even a waffle. There have been parts hillier than anything since Kentucky. All very pretty though.

Lawrence was very hip and happening, a little liberal bubble of a college town in the middle of miles of farmland. Lots of great little shops, restaurants, juice bars, normal bars, what-have-you. . Lawrence also happens to be the home of the University of Kansas, the alma mater of one of fellow BnBer Josh. It even had a top notch bike that many of us frequented for some much needed repairs. Best of all, we stayed in Lawrence for two build days in a (drum roll) hotel! Yes, for the first time in a month we all got to sleep in real BEDS and watch TV. Amazing.

The build days were great, for a number of reasons. First, we works on the same site, which I prefer to splitting the group up because you see so much getting done. Second, we were actually working on a house, which I prefer just because I feel more like I'm having a direct impact. And then the homeowner Hameed had a very cool story- he moved to the US from Nigeria with his wife and five kids, all of whom, I understood, were attending college. The main work of the day was hanging dry wall, which most of us had never done but which basically involves nailing plasterboard-like Sheetrock to a house's frame. It was really fun, satisfying work, and in the two days we were able to do the whole ceiling. The time I wasn't building I enjoyed just exploring the town, laying in bed and swimming in the hotel pool, salting the time off. One night we went to a local commune, or "intentional community" as the inhabitants called, where a former BnBer hosted us for an awesome dinner of local, organic food. Afterwards we got a tour of the commune, a converted hardware store which they were working to convert to a green community space for social justice, holistic health, etc. It was called the Cosmic Beauty School. All very idealistic and hippie, but noble and admirable nonetheless.

We left Lawrence rejuvenated and ready to press on into the second half of the trip. It's been two long days, ninety yesterday into Manhattan and one hundred today into Beloit. In Manhattan KS, the "little apple" and the home of Kansas State, we were treated by our hosts to a trolley ride and an order-whatever-you-want dinner at Olive Garden. I got apricot chicken, and it was delicious. And now here I am sitting in the Catholic high school here in Beloit, gearing up for Nebraska tomorrow where I'll finally be able to drop that apt one-liner. T-five days to Colorado, I can't wait for the west! Pictures below, peace out.